Noctography Noctography Paul Haworth Nightscapes Open the app

Free · no account · any device

Plan the night, frame the shot.

Is tonight worth the drive or hike, and if it is, what you shoot? Noctography answers both: cloud, moonlight, real darkness, aurora, meteors, lunar and planetary conjunctions, ISS and Starlink passes and the sky itself, for anywhere in the world. Then it keeps a record of what you shot.

Open on phone Open on desktop What it does

Either link works on either device: the phone one widens out on a big screen, and the desktop one stays wide. Add it to your home screen and it behaves like an app.

What it does

Growing all the time. Everything is worked out on your own device from public forecast and orbital data: there is no server deciding things for you, and nothing to sign up to.

Tonight

Is it worth going out?

A simple, straight answer first. Then the best window of the night and a suggestion of places nearby with better prospects. Cloud, temperature, wind, mist or fog, sun and moon rise and set time, lunar phase, a real-world Bortle index that takes account of the conditions, anticipated meteor activity, aurora chances, Milky Way core altitude, and any bright ISS or Starlink passes. Compare tonight to the fifteen nights ahead of you, and the previous five. See easily when everything seems to be coming together for an awesome night under the stars.

Place

Your real horizon mapped, with light pollution overlaid

Pinpoint where you’re standing or intend to visit, with zoomable satellite mapping. Check out the real-world Bortle in that area and nearby so you can find the optimal location for your shot. Then see a simulation of your horizon with the hills and mountains that could get in the way, with the ability to manually add obstructions that a map doesn’t pick up. All that with a simulated view of the light pollution in each direction.

Sky AR

Framing the shot with AR

Hold the phone up, or plan from the sofa: your lens drawn over the scene, with every catalogue object and the Milky Way itself shown as a real photograph, at its true position, size and rotation. Scrub the date to watch the core swing into season, or scrub the night to see the composition turn overhead. See exactly what will fit in the frame before you’ve left the house.

When you find a composition worth having, save it. The app keeps where you stood, the direction, the lens and the object, and then tells you every future night the same alignment comes round again: the hour it happens, what the moon will be doing and whether it clears your horizon. Saved compositions appear as pins on the map, and the ones that line up tonight are listed first.

Aurora

Who is seeing it, right now

A forecast tells you it is possible. Somebody standing in a field tells you it is happening. Report what you can actually see, on a scale from a wash that only shows on camera through to colour visible to the naked eye, and it goes straight onto a shared map for everyone else watching tonight.

Every report carries the conditions the app measured where that person stood: the geomagnetic reading, their cloud cover, how dark the site is, how far south of the oval they are. So a pin is not just a claim, it is a claim with its workings attached, and you can judge whether it means anything for where you are. Tap one to read it. Scroll back through the last five nights and the map replays them against the real measured index for each moment.

Alongside it: real-time solar wind, the forecast for your latitude expressed as nights in ten, and a flag on Tonight when somebody within a hundred kilometres has seen it with their own eyes. No account, and reports are placed to about five kilometres rather than to your doorstep.

Meteors

Sixty nights, honest rates

Meteor shower activity against moon, cloud and sky darkness, with an hour-by-hour chart of the coming night and a breakdown for every active shower. The headline figure is what you can realistically expect to see given the conditions, not the quoted theoretical rates.

Trails

Star trails and timelapses

Three star trail patterns you can overlay using the AR mode onto the scene in front of you, with a session planner that checks your chosen length against the dark window, moonset, cloud through the whole night and the dew point. It also warns when the moon will be inside your frame. The same run of frames doubles as a timelapse: pick a length and it gives you the shutter, interval and frame count.

Pano

Panorama calculator

How far to rotate between frames for your lens, sensor and overlap, with the number of shots for a 180 or 360 degree sweep. Built for working it out in the field, in the dark, with cold hands.

Kit

Your camera, once

Sensor, megapixels, lens and aperture, saved to your device. Common focal lengths are one tap away, or type in your own. It gives you your pixel pitch, your field of view, and how long you can hold the shutter before the stars trail, pin-sharp or relaxed. Every other screen reads it, so they all agree with each other, and Frame it is one tap away from wherever you set it.

Log

What you actually shot

One tap stamps a shot with the time, and the app attaches what it already knows about the night: place, the dark window, the moon, the geomagnetic reading, cloud, the Bortle class where you stood. You then fill in your shot details so you’ve got a log of the night. A month later the calendar shows every night you wrote on, and the whole log copies, emails or prints out. It never leaves your device.

Six colour schemes, and night vision throughout. One tap turns the whole app red on black so it does not wreck your dark adaptation. A design to suit all tastes.

Why I built it

I am Paul Haworth, a landscape astrophotographer and filmmaker based in the Cambridgeshire Fens, in the east of England. I spend a lot of nights standing in the middle of nowhere waiting for the sky to do something worth photographing.

The problem was never a shortage of information. It was that the information lived in so many different places: one site for cloud, another for the moon, a light pollution map, a meteor calendar, a satellite tracker, and none of them answered the only question that matters at five o'clock on a Tuesday afternoon: is tonight worth it?

So I built the thing I wanted. It pulls the forecast, works out the astronomy on your phone, and gives you a straight answer. Then, if you are going out, it tells you when the sky will be darkest, what is worth pointing at, whether it will fit your lens, whether the aurora might treat you, whether to pack dew straps, and whether the mist is going to ruin it anyway.

It works anywhere. Give it a location and it reads the light pollution atlas, the forecast and the sky for that spot, in either hemisphere: the only thing that is particularly British about it is me.

It is free because it was always for me and my friends first. If it saves you a cold hour working something out on the back of your hand, you can buy me a coffee.

Common questions

What is the best time to photograph the Milky Way Core?

You need three things at once: full astronomical darkness (or close to it), minimal moon, and the galactic core above the horizon. When that happens depends on where you are: north of the equator the core season runs roughly February to October and the core stays fairly low in the south; from the southern hemisphere it climbs far higher, and the season shifts. Noctography works all three out for your own location and shows where they overlap. Don’t forget there are plenty of other fantastic parts of the Milky Way to photograph away from the core!

What is real-world Bortle?

The published Bortle class for a site describes a perfect, moonless night, which is rarely the night you are standing in. Real-world Bortle starts from the atlas value for your location, then adds moonlight, haze from humidity, and town glow scattered back down by thin cloud, and converts the result back to a Bortle class. A Bortle 3 site under a gibbous moon genuinely performs like a Bortle 5 one.

How long an exposure before the stars trail?

It depends on your pixel pitch as much as your focal length, which is why the old 500 rule is generous on a dense sensor. Noctography uses the NPF rule and gives you two readings: pin-sharp, meaning no trailing at all, and relaxed, meaning trailing you will not notice in normal viewing and printing. In the framing view it goes further and corrects for the fastest star actually in your frame, which near the pole is worth a stop or more for nothing.

Will I see the aurora, or only photograph it?

Often only photograph it. A dark-adapted eye runs on rod vision, which is colour-blind and roughly five to ten times less sensitive than a camera sensor, so your camera will frequently detect an aurora before you do, and sometimes it never gets bright enough to see by eye. Noctography draws the camera threshold and the eye threshold separately, and moves both with the moonlight, cloud and haze on the night.

How many meteors will I actually see?

Far fewer than the quoted ZHR, which assumes a perfect observer under a perfect sky with the radiant overhead. The real number falls with radiant height, moonlight, light pollution and cloud. A shower quoted at 100 an hour might realistically be 25 from a rural site at mid latitudes, and less again where the radiant never climbs high. Noctography will tell you which you are getting.

Can I see where the Milky Way will be before it gets dark?

Yes. Hold your phone up and the AR overlay draws the real sky over the camera feed, using the compass and tilt, so you can scout the spot in daylight and see where the core, the pole or tonight's subject will sit against the landscape. Every subject is a real photograph at its true position and size, and the Milky Way is photographed too, not a drawn line, so what you see is close to what the camera will record. Scrub the date and the core moves into season. It draws your lens as a rectangle over the top, and in Trails it draws the arcs your session would actually produce. It runs on the phone, offline, and nothing is uploaded.

How far should I rotate between panorama frames?

It depends on focal length, sensor, orientation and overlap. Thirty percent overlap is the minimum for reliable stitching; forty to fifty is safer for night skies, where there is little detail for the stitcher to grip. A 24mm lens on full frame, portrait, at forty percent overlap needs about 44 degrees between frames. For very wide lenses, where vignetting can be strong, I often overlap up to 80%.

Why do clear nights sometimes end up misty?

Radiation fog forms on exactly the nights that look most promising: a clear sky lets the ground radiate its heat away, the air cools to its dew point, and with no wind to mix it, mist forms at ground level. Noctography warns when those three line up. It doesn’t mean a night is unusable – mist can help create stunning images.

What is a planetary conjunction, and when is the next one?

Two bright things appearing close together. Noctography flags every pairing among Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn and the moon that closes to within five degrees, which is about a fist at arm's length, and only when both stand at least five degrees above your horizon in a dark or nearly dark sky. The positions are computed on your phone from orbital elements, so it works offline and for any date. If one falls tonight it gets a card on Tonight, with the closest time, how high it will be and which way to face; otherwise look at the Conj row of the fifteen-night grid.

Can I keep a record of what I shot?

Yes, in the Log tab, and it stays on your own device. One tap stamps the time and the night's conditions, so the record is true even if the forecast moves on; you add the composition and the settings whenever suits, including the morning after. Nights you wrote on show up on a calendar, and the whole thing copies, emails or prints. Nothing is uploaded and there is no account, which also means nothing is backed up: it reminds you to take a copy off the phone every twenty entries.

Is it free?

Yes, and there is no account. You provide no personal information. Your location is shared anonymously to fetch weather and tide data. But otherwise everything stays on your device.

Have a look at tonight

It takes about five seconds to tell you whether to bother.

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